The present invention relates to a process for treating keratinous material, for example the hair, for the purpose of obtaining a permanent reshaping of the hair. The process according to the invention is usable in professional hair salons, beauty salons, cosmetic salons and, significantly, by the consumer in his or her home without the assistance of a professional hair-stylist or cosmetologist.
Processes for providing durable modifications to the shape of the hair, such as permanent waving hair, are known in the art. The most common technique for obtaining a permanent reshaping of the hair consists, in a first stage, in opening the keratin xe2x80x94Sxe2x80x94Sxe2x80x94disulfide (cystine) bonds by applying a composition containing a reducing agent to the hair. Typically, the hair has been placed under tension beforehand with a device, usually a roller. This first stage is commonly referred to as the reduction step.
Following the reduction step, the hair is usually rinsed and, in a second stage, the disulfide bonds are reconstituted, giving the hair the desired shape, by applying to the hair an oxidizing composition. This second stage is typically known as the oxidation step, also known as the fixing step.
This process makes it equally possible either to make the hair wavy, to straighten it, or to remove its curliness. The new shape given to the hair by a chemical treatment such as described above is generally long-lasting and generally resists the action of washing with water or shampoos. This is in contrast to simple standard techniques for temporary reshaping, such as hairsetting.
The reducing compositions that have been used in order to carry out the first step of known permanent-waving processes generally contain, as reducing agents, sulphites, bisulphites or thiols. Typical thiols have included, for example, cysteine and the various derivatives thereof, cysteamine and the derivatives thereof, thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid and the esters thereof, for example, glyceryl monothioglycolate, and thioglycerol.
A composition containing a reducing agent is intended to act chemically on the bonds that provide the cohesion of the protein structure of the hair: covalent disulfide cross-linkages, ionic bonds, or hydrogen bonds. The object of the reducing agent is to plasticize the hair fiber momentarily, rendering it deformable and without elasticity. In the case of a permanent-waving operation, the hair is rolled on curlers and then wetted with a reducing lotion, so that the imposed deformation is in the shape of curls.
After the hair has been reduced, a composition containing an oxidizing agent is applied and has the effect of restoring, or xe2x80x9cfixingxe2x80x9d the physicochemical structure to the hair fiber by forming new disulfide cross-links between keratin chains. The oxidizing composition is permitted to remain on the hair for a short period of time, usually about ten to fifteen minutes, after which the hair is unwound from the rollers and rinsed. The oxidizing composition is typically an acidic hydrogen peroxide solution. Other oxidizing agents used as fixatives include sodium perborate, potassium bromate, sodium chlorite, and sodium and potassium persulfates.
Variations of this process are also known. For example, the hair can be impregnated with a reducing composition before it is wound on rollers. Further, the reducing composition can contain additives such as disulfur or protecting agents, for example, cationic polymers, or other cosmetic agents, for example, silicones.
The processes of the prior art have a number of attendant disadvantages. For example, the user is required to wear gloves in order to avoid contact with the reducing lotion. Furthermore, the process requires a degree of expertise which may put off potential consumers, as the hair has to be wound on curlers. This process of winding the hair not only requires a certain degree of expertise, but it is also very time consuming. Accordingly, one aspect of the present invention is to provide for a faster, consumer-friendly, and durable modification of the shape of the hair. Another aspect of the invention is to provide a process for modifying the shape of the hair which can be performed by the consumer without the need for a professional hair stylist or cosmetologist. The process according to the invention can be at least one of practical, fast, and easy to use, so that no amount of expertise is required. Furthermore, the process according to the invention, can, in certain embodiments, allow one to avoid substantially all contact between the reducing composition and the skin.
The present invention, in one embodiment, relates to a process for permanently modifying the shape of hair, comprising providing a reducing composition comprising at least one thiol additionally comprising at least one function chosen from acid functions, amine functions, amide functions, and ester functions; providing a multilayered, deformable sheet of material comprising a first layer of a perforated, deformable, and semi-rigid material, and a second layer of material containing the reducing composition in an amount effective for permanently modifying the shape of hair, wherein the first layer is placed on or attached to the second layer to provide the multilayered, deformable sheet of material; wrapping at least one strand of hair with the multilayered, deformable sheet of material containing the reducing composition; providing a desired shape to the multilayered, deformable sheet of material which is wrapped around the at least one strand of hair; and applying to the at least one strand of hair, either before or after liberating the at least one strand of hair from the multilayered, deformable sheet of material, an oxidizing composition comprising an oxidizing agent capable of constituting new disulfide bonds on the hair; and rinsing the oxidizing composition from the hair.
A second embodiment of the invention relates to a process for permanently modifying the shape of the hair, comprising applying to at least one strand of hair a reducing composition comprising at least one thiol additionally comprising at least one function chosen from acid functions, amine functions, amide functions, and ester functions; shaping the at least one strand of hair by rolling, folding, or wrapping the at least one strand of hair with a deformable, semi-rigid sheet of material; and applying to the at least one strand, either before or after liberating the at least one strand of hair from the multilayered, deformable sheet of material, an oxidizing composition comprising an oxidizing agent capable of reconstituting new disulfide bonds on the hair; and rinsing the oxidizing composition from the hair.
A further embodiment of the invention relates to a multicomponent kit for permanently modifying the shape of the hair comprising at least three components which are separate from each other, a first component containing a reducing composition for reducing the disulfide bonds of a hair fiber, comprising at least one thiol additionally comprising at least one function chosen from acid functions, amine functions, amide functions, and ester functions; a second component containing a multilayered, deformable sheet of material comprising a first layer of a perforated, deformable, and semi-rigid material, and a second layer of material capable of containing the reducing composition, wherein the first layer is capable of being placed on or attached to the second layer; and a third component containing an oxidizing agent capable of forming new disulfide bonds on the hair fiber.
Yet another embodiment of the invention relates to a multicomponent kit for permanently modifying the shape of hair comprising at least three components which are separate from each other, a first component containing a reducing composition for reducing the disulfide bonds of a hair fiber, comprising at least one thiol additionally comprising at least one function chosen from acid functions, amine functions, amide functions, and ester functions; a second component containing a sheet of a deformable, semi-rigid material; and a third component containing an oxidizing agent capable of reforming the disulfide bonds of the hair fiber.
Another aspect of the invention relates to a multicomponent kit for permanently modifying the shape of hair comprising at least two components which are separate from each other, a first component containing a multilayered, deformable sheet of material comprising a first layer of a perforated, deformable, and semi-rigid material, and a second layer of material containing a reducing composition for reducing the disulfide bonds of a hair fiber, comprising at least one thiol additionally comprising at least one function chosen from acid functions, amine functions, amide functions, and ester functions, wherein the first layer is capable of being placed on or attached to the second layer; and a second component containing an oxidizing agent capable of forming new disulfide bonds on the hair fiber.
It is to be understood that both the foregoing general description and the following detailed description are exemplary and explanatory only and are not restrictive of the invention as claimed.
The accompanying drawings, which are incorporated in and constitute a part of this specification, illustrate one embodiment of the invention and, together with the description, serve to explain the principles of the invention.